Umbrian Odyssey

An Odyssey in Umbria and Lazio
Valere Tjolle 12/5/06

Apart from a brief visit to Spoleto and a series of meals laced with truffles, I’d never seen much of Umbria although I’d heard a great deal about the province. "Amazing food" they said, "Fabulous hilltop art cities and superb countryside, just like Tuscany but fewer tourists – you need to go there". Called "The Green Heart of Italy", this beautiful and mystical province has an intriguing history featuring the Etruscans, the Romans, the Gauls and a selection of other warlike races, all who left a little religion, food and architecture in Umbria. Together, they all created a fascinating blend of cultures and tastes. Of Lazio, I knew nothing except the name of the football team We were now to eat our way around this historic area in a matter of just a few days, I was certainly looking forward to truffles and ancient art treasures again – what else would we find?

Angelo had told me that we weren’t to get truffles. "Not any?" "No, it’s not the season." "Not even the summer ones?" "Have you got any idea about how much those white ones cost?"- " You can’t have any". Oh well. We’d left at a ridiculous hour on Sunday morning, so that we could have a quick coffee at Rome airport and get to Orvieto in time to check the restaurant, see the frescoes and have a proper lunch. And I was fed up that we weren’t going to have any truffles.
The cathedral is set just on the square, right at the top of the hill - it’s the must-see in Orvieto, not just for the Signorelli frescoes inside, the building itself is said to be Italy’s finest Gothic Duomo. Started in the 13th century, the Duomo was 300 years in the building, 33 architects, 152 sculptors, 68 painters and 90 mosaicists combined their skills to produce this masterpiece. The effect is stunning, from the outside, the silvery stone highlighted by the mosaics, the windows and the sculpture, makes the cathedral look like a glorious Byzantine jewel-box. And inside, we joined the crowds patiently waiting to be let into see the frescoes – Luca Signorelli’s ‘Last Judgement’, one of the greatest Italian fresco cycles. Frighteningly realistic, the paintings depicted those in the paradise serenely viewing the inferno’s debauchery and angst. Perhaps not the best thought to have in our minds before the lunch we were so much looking forward to.
As we walked towards the "Palomba" we asked directions "Don’t bother unless you’ve got a reservation" we were told. But we had reserved thank God, The moment we walked through the restaurant’s door, we could tell that there was real treat in store. The "Palomba" was packed with families thoroughly enjoying their Sunday luncheon feasts.

The smart young waitress showed us to our table and we considered the menu with her assistance. "Don’t eat the lamb" said Angelo "Why not" said I "Because you’re not going to get it pink in Italy and it doesn’t taste the same as in England – you won’t like it." I ordered the house antipasto, then a local version of ‘Pici’ (hand-made macaroni without wheat) with wild boar sauce and then the lamb. "You won’t like it’ he said again. The antipasto was perfect, a little local charcuterie, with local olive oil and bread, the soft, absorbent pici were sublime as a base for the wild boar sauce, which was dark and rich, the lamb was tough, dry and rubbish, and, of course, I’d forgotten to order any greens (one up to Angelo!), For pudding, I had a Pannacotta which was delicious although very, very liquid. Coffee and the bill, at about £15 a head we certainly couldn’t complain. Time for a little explore of Orvieto and, like a typical glutton (definitely right at the bottom of the Signorelli food-chain) I was off to the nearest gelato shop. Coffee, cream and tiramisu gelato – heaven, looking at the Duomo again, and culture too! Time to drive off to our beds for the night.

Monticelli seemed a pretty little village as we drove through on the way so we decided to come back after we’d checked in. Borgo Monticelli, where we were staying is a serious renovation job. Built as a hilltop castle in the 12th century, one of a series protecting Perugia. Its main job was to spot invading armies, hence the hilltop situation and the 360 degree views. What a position, now, to observe the enchanting Umbrian countryside from the castle’s lawns, swimming pool, from your window or from the outdoor bar. Now open to the public after years of thoughtful renovation by its owner, a Roman professor of Economics, the castle is comfortable and very romantic. Our rooms were seriously large and well furnished with antiques and big comfortable beds. There’s a little library in each apartment if you can tear yourself away from the window. Time for a quick stroll around the castle grounds. Originally this was an Etruscan temple, then it became a fortified alarm tower to watch the progress of the constant invaders - Goths, Lombards, Byzantines, Saracens and Gauls included in the early years of Christianity. Then, Borgo Monticelli became a protected Benedictine monastery and a little hamlet. The old church with its delightful frescoes inside, now sits directly opposite the farmhouse with its erect Etruscan rooftop phallus. The two buildings making a statement we could all understand.
All was Sunday night silent in the local village except for the outdoor cafÈ, which was having a little party. Most of the villagers (probably 20 or so of all ages) were enjoying a little dance to round off the weekend. We had a quick drink and went off to the local restaurant. Ristorante il Roseto, is owned and run by a Sicilian tax collector, he seemed jolly enough, much rubbing of hands and offers of Grappa, and the food was OK. Tonight was obviously music night in Monticelli and a saxophonist friend of the owner was giving a rendition of popular songs of the last 40 years or so including that old favourite "Ciao Ciao Bambina". Time for bed before the dancing started again.

In the morning, after enjoying the hillside sunshine, we headed for breakfast – a superb spread in Borgo Monticelli’s ancient vaulted hall. Home-made pastries and local bread, ham and good cheese and a freshly-made ricotta helped us get in practice for lunch.

A small, quiet village, a superb small hotel, restaurant and vineyard, that’s the Tre Vaselle (three vessels) – it simply oozed of class. The Maitre d’Hotel (unusually a Greek) showed us to a large comfortable table in the conservatory and proceeded to describe the distinctive menu and his, and the chef’s suggestions. Tiny warm, freshly-baked breads were served and we were encouraged to mix the restaurant’s own balsamic vinegar with the estate’s olive oil to taste with the bread – delicious. As an "Amuse-geule", they’d prepared us little savoury potato croquettes with three tiny dots of a balsamic reduction. The hors d’oeuvres was the most succulent thick carpaccio with a small-leaf salad and a mouth-watering Parmesan soufflÈ. This was followed by something a bit heavier - gnocchi lightened by the incorporation of wheat, in a sauce of local truffles (note Angelo!). Then the meat of my Italian food dreams – local Chianina beef cooked to perfect tenderness with asparagus and an artichoke-heart cream. With this feast, we naturally drank the house wine - Rubesco Torgiano Lungarotti Riserva. The owner of Tre Vaselle, Contessa Lungarotti is also a well-known local vintner and the sponsor of Umbria’s famous wine museum. Ready for dessert? Well, you simply have to finish a meal like this properly, don’t you? Fabulous icecream, in a spun-sugar casing with chocolate sauce, petits fours, coffee and grappa. We were full and quite ready for a walking tour of the 5 star luxury hotel which offers calorie-counting breakfasts! How much for the meal? £50 and worth every penny.

What to do on a lovely day in Umbria after a glorious lunch? Ice cream by the lake is a good start. And a boat trip to the Isola Grande on Lake Trasimeno, a bit of fresh air to blow the cobwebs away! Back to the castle for a wash and brush up before a (very tiny) dinner at the village cafÈ, but no dancing. The owner had made pizza bits for us that gave Angelo a bad tummy "I’m Venetian, I can’t eat all this Southern stuff – leave pizza to the Neapolitans."
It was a pity to leave the Borgo but we were to visit the Strada del Sagrantino.. Breakfast first. We had an appointment to meet Alessandro at 11 in the centre of Bevagna. Eschewing the car park on the outskirts, we drove through the delightful narrow streets of this ancient little city. Alessandro was waiting, obviously he’d dressed up for the occasion.

In his early 30’s, Alessandro’s long, tousled black locks fell over his unshaven genial face and he was wearing standard uniform – t shirt, jeans and sparkly trainers. Later, he told us he’d had a right hard night yesterday as he was soon to get married. Before we knew where we were, like a conjurer, Alessandro had turned a key in the lock of an old door and ushered us in. We were in a sensationally decorated, gilded and galleried tiny theatre – lovably perfect in every respect. If this was Bevagna’s place of entertainment – what else was there in this perfect little mediaeval city? Next to the market, in the cloisters of an old monastery, now a tranquil hotel. Olive oil and wine tasting at 11am, how better to get ready for lunch? A little tour of Bevagna followed. In Roman times, called Mevania, the city had been a staging post on the route north – the Via Flaminia. Mevania had all the necessary facilities for Roman travellers, hotel, mosaic-bottomed baths, stabling and hospitality services a great deal of which is now beautifully preserved.
You’ve guessed it, the Strada del Sagrantino was the local wine and food route, named after the local Sagrantino wine. Two vineyard tours and tastings followed and we ended up sitting in the sun, in some comfort at L’Alchimista, Cristina Magnini’s restaurant on Montefalco’s small but gorgeous historic main square. Some local ham and bread for starters then Alessandro convinced us to eat the wild asparagus by demonstrating his hands, cut while gathering it, and showing some of the haul. So, spaghetti with wild asparagus, it was with some of the Montefalco Sagrantino wine. By now the church museum and art gallery was open so it was time to see some more frescoes – this time Benozzo Gozzoli’s 15th century "Life of St Francis".

In the spirit of ancient Italian cavalleros, we felt it appropriate to take the old Roman road, Via Cassia, into Lazio, to our next stay "I due Laghi" and dinner. Architecturally, the hotel could be called "Big 1960’s Swiss Chalet" style. Comfortable enough, but a bit dark and with the odd boar’s head dotted around. The hotel grows all its own food including its meat (they’ve over 500 animals), and makes its own goats cheese. Thinking I was in for a treat I followed the boss’s (Matteo’s) suggestions in respect of the menu. "Don’t have the lamb" repeated Angelo. I ordered a cheese soufflÈ in a pastry case, seafood pasta and the lamb, a pity really. The biggest mistake was my pudding which was caramelised aubergines and ice cream (the chef’s speciality – apparently he was from the south). Anyway, it tasted as bizarre as it looked. Said Angelo "I don’t know what you’re complaining about – I had the Chianina and it was superb".

Of course, I Due Laghi is perfect if you’re an equestrian. The hotel has everything you need, even a drag hunt. You can ride in the sand arena, grass arena, cross country field or hack around the estate’s 150 hectares, and afterwards enjoy a game of billiards and a drink in the club. Matteo, in his hacking jacket and jodhpurs would be your perfect host.

Matteo had said "You must visit castle Orsini on lake Bracciano – It is so wonderful" and, there we were, getting vertigo on the battlements, high over the lake. On to Isabella Medici’s lavish bedroom and the door to the blade-covered, quicklime-bottomed chute where Isabella threw her lovers when she’d used them up. Old Issy must have been bored having to marry Paolo G (Orsini) in 1560 and stay in that dreary old castle instead of living it up in Florence-the-happening-city. A quick look at Lake Bracciano – where the Romans had picnic events to view mock sea battles complete with dying slaves and blood stained water – and we were on our way to our final gastronomic treat.

La Posta Vecchia was built by the Orsini family too. The grand house was perfectly placed right beside the sea in 1640, on an original Roman settlement. J P Getty spotted the house and purchased it in 1960. During the restoration work, the ruins of a large roman villa with fabulous mosaic floors were uncovered. These now form the core of the private archaeological museum in the hotel’s basement. JP gradually turned the villa into his dream holiday home with the addition of princely treasures from all over the world. This extraordinary seaside villa now operates as a small hotel, with just 19 rooms and a fabulous restaurant. The informal atmosphere, exquisite features and attention to detail gives you the feeling that you have joined an aristocrat’s house party – which you probably have.

Barbara Panzera the new, and very smart, manager of this luxury hotel hosted us for lunch. The youngest (and possibly most attractive) manager of a 5 star hotel in Italy, Barbara has the air of a very professional Tamsin Outhwaite – the manager in Hotel Babylon. I bet Barbara has some tales to tell – though I bet she’d not had any Issy Orsini’s to stay.

The chef had been asked to prepare us a meal of local seafood and we sat in the restaurant on the terrace overlooking the sea with Barbara waiting for this feast. After the, now compulsory, Amuse-geule with balsamic reduction, the breads, olive oils and balsamic, we started with a little pastry tart filled with shavings of artichoke hearts, delightful, fresh and aromatic. We then had both a delicate little risotto made with broad beans and a home made linguini with fresh lobster roe. The main course was king prawns on a bed of fresh little local lentils. With all this we drank some first growth 2003 Frascati. Dessert was a big favourite of mine –chocolate soufflÈ with a melting middle and cinnamon ice cream. This was relatively simple food, but absolutely delicious. Just time for a coffee and a few petits fours before we drove to the airport.
We couldn’t resist a stop en route at Frascati to pay tribute to the lunchtime wine and for a last afternoon ice cream and espresso. And then it was home after a relaxing and enjoyable four days. Great food, wonderful scenery, fascinating history, deft, thoughtful, educated and caring service – the whole trip was introduction to Umbria and Lazio that I certainly won’t forget.

Travel arrangements and hotels by Carefree Italy www.carefree-italy.com
Telephone: 01293 553232
Easyjet flies to Rome and, next year to Perugia www.easyjet.com
Borgo Monticelli – www.borgomonticelli.it
Hotel Le Tre Vaselle – www.3vaselle.it
Strada de Sagrantino – www.stradadelsagrantino.it
I Due Laghi – www.iduelaghi.it
La Posta Vecchia. – www.lapostavecchia.com
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